How To Get A Job In Antarctica

Sharing how I got paid to live in Antarctica, how to get a job on the ice, and everything you need to know about life at McMurdo Station. With a lot of Bourdain quotes.

After six years of finding jobs that would pay me to travel the world, I was determined to somehow get paid to live in Antarctica, too– the final frontier and the last continent in my quest to visiting all seven continents and sailing through all seven seas.

The view on top of Observation Hill at McMurdo Station, Antarctica — The view on top of Observation Hill at McMurdo Station

It was only after seeing Anthony Bourdain's trip down to "the ice" (Antarctica) on Parts Unknown (go ahead, roll your eyes; I have no shame) that I realized it was possible to see the white continent the same way I'd seen the rest of this planet: with a paycheck.

Related: 7 Continents & 7 Seas: How I Got Paid to Travel the World

Tony inspired a lot of people with that Antarctica episode– not just me– to see and experience life on the ice.

I hope this guide serves to inspire and encourage the next; to spark an interest in the mesmerizing, unique, and last untouchable place on this planet that is Antarctica.

Can you live in Antarctica?
How many research stations are there in Antarctica?
How do you get paid to live in Antarctica?
- Why are scientists needed in Antarctica?
  - Fun Facts
- What support staff jobs are in Antarctica?
How do I get a job in Antarctica?
- Americans
- Non-Americans
Is it hard to get a job in Antarctica?
What is life like in McMurdo?
- Work
- Living Accommodations
- Lifestyle and Recreation
- Demographics
  - Gender
  - Racial Diversity
  - Age
  - Occupation
- Culture
- Seasons
  - August- September: WinFly
  - October- February: Mainbody
  - January- February: Vessel
  - February- April: WinFall
  - April- August: Winter
- Temperatures
- Weather
- Internet and WiFi
- Food
  - Typical Meals in McMurdo
  - Themed Meals
  - So, really— how's the food in McMurdo?
- Wildlife
Final Thoughts

Can you live in Antarctica?

While there are a select handful of tourist expeditions that offer overnight experiences in Antarctica, the only people who actually live on the ice are those working at research facilities.

If you work at one of the research stations in Antarctica, you can live on the ice for approximately up to a year and a half at a time before you need to go off continent for a few weeks.

Penguins molting at Hut Point, near McMurdo Station with cross and sea ice in the background — Penguins at Hut Point

How many research stations are there in Antarctica?

Internationally, there are currently 43 active permanent research stations operating year-round in Antarctica with an additional 50 facilities with seasonal operations in the summer (as of 2020).

The United States has three permanent research stations in Antarctica:

McMurdo Station: the largest station on the continent and located on Ross Island
Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station: located at the geographic South Pole
Palmer Station: located in the Antarctic Peninsula

Map showing the locations of the three USAP stations — The three permanent stations of the United States Antarctic Program

How do you get paid to live in Antarctica?

There are two general categories of people who get hired to live and work on Antarctic research stations: scientists and support staff.

Scott's Discovery Hut and Observation Hill at McMurdo Station, Antarctica — Scott's Discovery Hut in the foreground, McMurdo Station in the midground, and Observation Hill in the background

Why are scientists needed in Antarctica?

The white continent is central to understanding a lot about our world: the environment, the climate, the oceans, the atmosphere, space, and so much more.

This is due to Antarctica being largely untouched and uninhabited unlike other continents, as well as its unique location and environment.

At a time when science is held in open contempt…when painfully acquired data is actually being deleted from computers if it conflicts with preconceived policies, these guys are looking at some deep stuff.
Anthony Bourdain, Parts Unknown: Antarctica

The scientific findings from Antarctica provide us with rich information about the world that extends through numerous areas of studies.

From biologists studying the Dry Valleys to NASA utilizing the ice's rare conditions to test equipment for future space missions, there is an abundance of research activity happening in the harshest continent on Earth.

Fun Facts

Antarctica is home to 4/5 of all known meteorites
One of the eight ground-based radio telescopes used to capture the first image of the black hole was located at the South Pole
Antarctica is the largest desert in the world

What support staff jobs are in Antarctica?

As the saying goes, it takes a village.

On the ice, science cannot move forward without a team of people to support them with all the necessary provisions: operating facilities, mechanics, machine operators, cooks, plumbers, electricians, carpenters, medical staff, firefighters, airfield operators– the list goes on.

Any job you could think of that is needed to run a small and isolated town, there's probably a position for that.

wander eat write in antarctica — Hanging out with some penguin friends after work

How do I get a job in Antarctica?

Americans

The United States Antarctic Program has a jobs and opportunity page where you can find a full list of agencies to apply with.

There are five primary contractors that the program works with and these are usually where most participants are able to find opportunities that eventually bring them to the ice:

GANA-A'YOO Services Corporation (GSC): Food, housing, janitorial, waste, retail, and postal services
GHG Corporation: Engineering and IT
Leidos: Operations and logistics
PAE: Infrastructure, operations, transportation, and logistics
University of Texas Medical Branch (UTMB): Medical

Additional contractors include:

Air Center Helicopters, Inc.: Helicopter support
Kenn Borek Air Ltd: On continent twin Otter aircraft support

Several branches and task-forces of the U.S. military also provide support to the continent and American stations:

Branch/ Task-Force	Operation/ Wing	Support
Join Task Forces Support Forces Antarctica	Operation Deep Freeze	Logistics
The U.S. Air Force	USAF 62nd Airlift Wing, McChord AFB, Washington	Airlift support
The Air National Guard	New York Air National Guard 109th Airlift Wing	LC-130 air support
The U.S. Coast Guard	–PACAREA Icebreaker Operations –Cutter Polar Sea –Cutter Polar Star	-Icebreaker and vessel support -Fuel delivery
The U.S. Navy	-NIWC -Polar Programs IPT	-Weather forecasting -Air traffic control -Systems maintenance -Information security

Icebergs at Winter Quarters Bay near McMurdo Station, Antarctica — Icebergs at Winter Quarters Bay

Non-Americans

There are 31 countries besides the United States with active permanent or seasonal research operations in Antarctica.

You can find the various Antarctic programs here with links to their employment pages (if available).

Is it hard to get a job in Antarctica?

In general, jobs in Antarctica tend to be pretty competitive for an obvious reason: there are a lot of people who want the unique opportunity to work and live on the ice, but there is a limited number of positions available.

It's not uncommon for people to apply for a few years before they ever hear back or make it through the initial application filtering process.

Bottom line: it's not impossible to get a job in Antarctica, but it may require some patience.

Hut Point, McMurdo Station, Antarctica — Hut Point

What is life like in McMurdo?

McMurdo is a small town of hard workers with a passion for adventure and a thirst for knowledge.

It ain't pretty. It looks like a mining camp… [It's] a community– a tightly knit, highly organized, very odd subculture of just under a thousand people in summer, and 150 in winter, all working toward the same thing in this most remote, barren, yet stunningly beautiful continent.
Anthony Bourdain, Parts Unknown: Antarctica

This section covers all the ins and outs of life in MacTown: work, recreation, demographics, culture, weather, food, and wildlife.

Related: 20 Things You Didn't Know About Life at McMurdo Station, Antarctica

Work

Everyone works roughly 54 hours over six days a week.

While the main operating hours in McMurdo ("town hours") are typical business hours Monday through Saturday, the station runs 24/7 in the summer so there are always people needed around the clock.

Usually, departments will rotate everyone's schedule every few weeks so that you don't get stuck with one shift.

Living Accommodations

There are a number of dorm buildings on station and most people will have at least one roommate, although in the height of the summer season it's not uncommon to have up to four people to a room in the largest dorm (Building 155).

Some dorms have communal bathrooms and others share a bathroom between two rooms.

The central, blue Building 155 at McMurdo Station — Building 155: the largest dorm and most central building on station

Lifestyle and Recreation

Because McMurdo is the largest station in Antarctica, there are so many things to do.

Here are some of the recreational activities and facilities available in town:

Fitness: Exercise classes, cardio gym ("gerbil gym"), weight room, fun runs/ races
Sports: Volleyball, soccer, basketball, climbing wall, indoor hockey, hiking, skiing, softball
Leisure: Crafts room, band room, sauna
Educational: Library, historic tours, science lectures, travel presentations
Bars/Cafes: Southern Exposure, Gallagher's, Coffee House, The Tatty Flag (this is the bar at Scott Base, the nearby Kiwi Base where McMurdans can visit on select dates, aka "American Night")
Social: Themed/holiday parties hosted by various departments, Ice Stock (the annual outdoor New Year's music festival), karaoke, live music, trivia, open mic, film showings, board games
Clubs: Photography, chess, language exchange
Religious services at the Chapel of the Snows: Nondenominational services, Protestant worship services, Bible studies
Wellness: 12-step programs, meditation, yoga

Demographics

Gender

Although every season will vary, the typical demographics of McMurdo is approximately 70% male and 30% female.

I'll be completely honest, the significant gender difference made for some interesting times which were not always pleasant.

Don't get me wrong, there are some amazing guys down there; but due to my position working in the galley (cafeteria), dealing with misogynistic comments and just overall disappointing behavior from quite a few less than stellar men was a regular occurrence at work for me and my female coworkers.

That being said, I think the women that are on the ice are some of the toughest you'll ever meet.

There's a phrase I heard tossed around, and I think it's pretty accurate:

Antarctica: Full of badass women and mediocre men.

Melting sea ice and drifting icebergs in McMurdo Sound

Racial Diversity

The population is as white as the continent.

Although, there was a sizable group of us minorities, especially in the height of summer during vessel season (when American and Kiwi military come to aid in providing the town with the necessary supplies and fuel for the year).

Keep in mind, when I say "sizable," I mean there were enough of us minorities that I didn't know all of us by name, but we definitely were all aware of each other.

And if someone was trying to describe one of us, it wouldn't take long to figure out who you were talking about.

For example, all you needed to identify me was with, "The Asian girl in the galley."

Because I was the only one.

But if you were trying to describe most guys on station, it pretty much went like, "White guy, dark hair, beard, about six foot…" ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

And they were probably named some variant of Jon/John or Brian/Bryan.

Age

While I expected the majority of people on station to be in their 20s or early 30s like myself, I think the average age during my season in 2019-2020 must have been closer to late 30s to mid 40s.

But overall, there are people of all ages down on the ice.

One of my roommates was even a retired, world-traveling grandma with quite a remarkable life story.

Occupation

Most of town are working blue collar, hands on jobs; and a lot are working outdoors all day.

Those indoors are typically either scientists, service and facilities workers, or administrative staff.

fork lift and skua at McMurdo Station — Life in a small town on a frozen continent

Culture

McMurdo is a unique place where science meets adventure; where researchers are at the top of their field and where food service and janitorial workers have some of the craziest backgrounds you'll ever hear of; where academics and military party together, where misfits and outliers belong.

There is a curiosity in everyone who comes here. It's a continent of travels, of seekers, united in the continuation of exploration, learning, the search for greater understanding, the pursuit of pure knowledge.
Anthony Bourdain, Parts Unknown: Antarctica

One of my favorite aspects of life in McMurdo that I think many former McMurdans might agree with is that there is a huge culture of respect across occupations and mutual understanding that everyone has something to bring to the table.

Regardless of what you're on the continent to do, once you've made it, you're part of the exclusive albeit sometimes weird community of misfits.

Everyone has accomplished so much in their own lives away from the ice.

Near death experiences and stories of adventurous peril are just a dime a dozen.

I'd even venture a guess that it's probably the only place on this planet where you'll find a considerable amount of people in a single city who've been to all seven continents.

And as such, everyone is eager to hear about each others' stories and life outside of the ice, no matter what your job on station is.

It's the perfect environment to meet people you'd never come across in your normal life off continent.

In fact, a few of the closest friends I made on the ice could not have been more different than me: two middle-aged white guys from the other side of the country.

And because there's no WiFi (more on that later), you actually talk to other people while eating instead of staring at your phone.

Meals can quickly turn into an hours-long event having discussions with people who sound like fictitious superhero movie characters because you think there's no way that an actual human with such a remarkable and seemingly impossible life could exist. And yet, in McMurdo— they do.

Seasons

Antarctica officially has two seasons: summer and winter, although there is some semblance of a spring and autumn as well.

Summer is marked by 24 hours of daylight, and in the winter 24 hours of darkness.

Life in McMurdo follows these seasons with its own yearly timeline that looks a little like the following:

August- September: WinFly

Short for "Winter Fly-In," this is the period where early-season personnel are flown in to begin operations for the main summer season.

This is the continent's spring, with the sun starting to come back and temperatures slightly warming up.

October- February: Mainbody

This is the main summer season where most of the year's activities take place.

Temperatures are warmest in January.

View of sea ice by McMurdo Station with Kiwi station Scott Base in the distance — Summer beachside : thawing sea ice to the right and Kiwi station Scott Base in the distance (lime green)

January- February: Vessel

This is the busiest period as a few large vessels arrive with a year's worth of supplies and fuel.

Both American and Kiwi military are brought in to help unload everything.

It's a massive operation that usually bumps up the town's population by a few hundred people.

The U.S. Coast Guard and the Maersk Perry docked in McMurdo

February- April: WinFall

February marks the end of mainbody and when the majority of personnel leave the ice.

Flights in and out of the continent reduce to roughly one or two a month during this autumn season with some support staff lingering on station until the last flight before winter.

Winter-Overs (people staying to keep the station operating through the winter) typically arrive during this time as well.

Around March, the sun will set for the first time and the days will gradually become more dim.

The dim view from Arrival Heights after the sun finally sets with Phoenix Airfield in the distance — The dim view from Arrival Heights after the sun finally sets with lights from the Phoenix Airfield runway in the distance

April- August: Winter

The sun sets for the last time late April and rises once again in late August.

Temperatures

In the austral summer, temperatures typically range from 10°F (-12°C) to 33°F (1°C), with an average temperature of 28°F (-2°C) in January (the hottest month).

In the winter, temperatures stretch between -23°F (-31°C) to 0°F (-18°C), with July (the coldest month) averaging at -15°F (-26°C).

Historically, temperatures on station have dropped as low as -58°F (-50°C) and risen as high as 45°F (8°C).

Hiking the Ob Hill Loop without my Big Red parka during the summer's warmest days

Weather

The weather in Antarctica can be unpredictable, harsh, and unforgiving.

It controls most of life on the ice and decides whether or not operations can take place as personnel safety is of the utmost importance.

Planes can make it within minutes of landing on the ice and get turned back the 5-7 hours to Christchurch if the visibility isn't right.

New Zealand Air Force LC-130 Hercules — After being delayed 7 days due to weather, the Kiwi Air Force was finally able to take us to the ice on this LC-130 Hercules

McMurdo has a three-class weather system in place that dictates what activities and movements can or cannot take place depending on visibility, wind speed, and temperature.

Condition 3: This is the normal weather condition where everything is operational and there are no travel restrictions in place. Con 3 is also the only time recreational travel is permitted.
Condition 2: Reduced visibility and moderate wind speed. Those authorized to leave town need to check out a radio with the Firehouse and check back in upon returning.
Condition 1: This is the most severe weather condition. Besides mission-critical travel, all movement is restricted, included walking between buildings as the lack of visibility could cause you to easily get lost just walking across the road.

Internet and WiFi

Internet in Antarctica is slow.

Even though there is access, if too many people are online at the same time, a simple webpage will be impossible to load.

Sites used regularly such as email or social media will have to be used through a "basic" setting instead of the typical interface if you want any chance of having access to it.

And even then, there's no guarantee that it will load in a reasonable amount of time.

sunset in mcmurdo — McMurdo: Home of gorgeous sunsets and terrible internet

In the summer season, due to the high number of people on station, there is no WiFi.

The only way to access the internet is through the various communal computers or by connecting your laptop to an ethernet port.

Also, mobile devices cannot be used for internet access due to security purposes.

After mainbody when the majority of people have left and the town's population has significantly decreased, the internet becomes faster (relative to usual summer speeds) and the station may turn on WiFi access.

Food

While there are no restaurants, there is one cafeteria on station that feeds everyone in town.

Fortunately, you won't be eating penguins and seal blubber like the early explorers.

Vessels and flights in the summer bring in fresh fruits and vegetables, known as freshies— the most coveted items on station and only spoken of while salivating and dreaming of life on a less desolate continent.

penguins at Hut Point, McMurdo Station, Antarctica — Friends, not food

Typical Meals in McMurdo

There are three meal times a day with an additional midnight meal "rationed"/ designated for MidRats, aka night shift workers (MidRats is short for "midnight rations").

Each meal has a selection of soups, hot foods, salads, fruits, and freshly baked bread and desserts.

During breakfast, there's an egg station where you can order eggs as you would at a restaurant: scrambled, over easy, or an omelette with an assortment of toppings.

Dinner includes a live-action station where you can customize whatever the special of the day is: burger, sandwich, burrito, stir fry, etc.

Although limited, there are always vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options available for every meal.

All day, there is fresh pizza available (some of the best I've had in my life, by the way) as well as a deli section where you can make your own sandwich.

The galley also has a "grab and go" refrigerator where you can take packaged leftovers and snacks at any time.

During the holidays, the kitchen staff pulls out all the stops and prepares elaborate meals and spreads that are as good as holiday meals get, in my opinion.

McMurdo Christmas dinner with lobster — A very merry McMurdo Christmas dinner

Themed Meals

If there's one thing you should know before you come, it's that McMurdo loves its themed meals and there's no escaping it.

Every Sunday is brunch day, where all the typical brunch-y foods can be found, including a smorgasbord of crackers, dips, cheeses, shrimp, smoked salmon, and seared tuna.

Every Tuesday lunch is Taco Tuesday, which consists of all the standard taco fixings as well as tortilla chips and melted nacho cheese.

Other themed meals include Greek night (gyros) and the bane of my existence: Asian night, aka Panda Express: Ice Edition.

So, really— how's the food in McMurdo?

All in all though, regardless of themed meal or not, the food on station was miles better than what I had expected.

The kitchen staff is amazing all in their own right, but in Antarctica, they have to make do with what they're given.

They do the best they can, and it's pretty impressive what they're able to put together despite the limitations.

And honestly, coming from someone who's worked on cruise ships, the food in McMurdo is better than what I ever ate onboard as a crew member.

McMurdo Station galley festively decorated for Christmas — The galley decorated for the Christmas meal

Wildlife

There are a limited number of animals you'll come across in McMurdo:

Skua: scavenger birds that are basically savage, 'roided turkeys in the sky
Whales
Seals
Penguins: Adelie and Emperor

The sight of penguins is always an event in town, but it's not always guaranteed.

While they typically make an appearance in the summer, some seasons there are only sparse sightings, and others— like my season— they can be seen nearly everyday.

If you are lucky enough to make it down to the ice, be sure to check out some Antarctica photography tips and bring a great camera to capture some of the most unique wildlife sightings you'll ever encounter in your life!

Adelie penguins at McMurdo Station — Adelie penguins

A pair of skua at McMurdo Station — Adelie penguins

Final Thoughts

Antarctica is the last un-fucked-up place on Earth. Chances are you can't go there.
Anthony Bourdain, Parts Unknown: Antarctica

It's not easy to see Antarctica, let alone getting paid to go down there.

But if you're patient and lucky enough to find yourself at the end of the world, you likely won't be disappointed.

View this post on Instagram

Seven seas. Seven continents. Six and a half years. . It's still hard to believe that my marathon around the world of sailing through every ocean and setting foot on every continent is finished, both so much earlier than I expected and not at all how I thought it would end. Leaving the ice is bittersweet, as it closes a chapter full of travels and adventures for me that all started in 2013. . Despite the harsh environment, frigid cold, and gender disparity, there's no other place I would've wanted to spend the last 120 days in. There are a lot of amazing people on this earth, and many of them are in McMurdo Station, Antarctica– however weird of a man camp it may be at the end of the world with terrible weather. . I'm thankful for all the talented and wonderful humans I met in these last 4 months, many of whom I consider part of my ever growing family, now across every continent in this tragically beautiful world. . Thanks for the memories, McMurdo. Until we meet again ❤️ #antarcticaadventures

A post shared by Michelle Endo (@wandereatwrite) on Apr 15, 2020 at 9:19pm PDT

Additional Antarctica Posts:

20 Things You Didn't Know About Life at McMurdo Station, Antarctica
McMurdo Station Packing List for Working in Antarctica
How to Get Paid to Travel to Every Continent (Yes, Even Antarctica)
Working in Antarctica: Supply Tech Jim Huston | Stories from the Ice
Working in Antarctica: Blaster Garry Rex | Stories From the Ice

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